Installing Hinges Look around and take note of the number of hinges that you encounter in your daily activities. From the time you get up in the morning until you pull away from the curb on the way to work you'll encounter hinges everywhere - on the bathroom door, refrigerator, the kitchen cabinets, the front gate and even getting into your car. Each and every hinge is specifically designed to serve a unique purpose and they all look vastly different from each other. Yet they all serve the same function. Hinges have been designed for almost every conceivable situation.

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How to Install Surface-Mounted Hinges Photo: Robert J. Settich A quick and easy guide to fashioning surface-mounted hinges, including the box hinge, strap hinge, no-mortise hinge, and overlay hinge. More on woodworking safety.

The variety of hinges available to the woodworker is staggering indeed, and selecting the right hinge and installing it correctly can be a challenge. In most cases, hardware is installed during the final phase of construction after much time has been invested in the project; this is definitely not the time to make a mistake in choosing or installing the hardware.

Even though the hinges are installed after the project is complete, you should choose the hinges early in the design phase and purchase them at the same time as the lumber for the project. Some hinges, such as knife hinges, require you to locate and cut the mortises before the case is assembled, so it is best to work from the actual hardware when laying out the location and size of the mortises.

Hinges allow one part of a project to move relative to another, a door on a cabinet or a lid on a box for example. For the hinge to operate smoothly through its range of motion without binding, requires that the hinge be mounted with a certain precision and an understanding of the geometry involved. Generally, less expensive utility hinges have more play in them, which allows them to operate with a less than perfect installation. However, as you move into the higher end, solid brass hinges, from manufacturers like Brusso and Soss, which are built to much higher tolerances, there are less opportunities for adjustment. Precision hinges like this demand no less than the same level of precision from the maker. The material that the hinge is made of will impact the final look of your project.

Steel hinges tend to be more utilitarian in nature while brass hinges are more suitable to furniture projects. Brass hinges can be stamped, extruded or milled from solid brass. Stamped hinges are thinner, often the mounting holes are not accurately drilled, and the hinge pin may be poorly fitted to the hinge. No matter what type of hinge you use, they will all need to have three features.

A leaf that mounts to the cabinet, a leaf that mounts to the door, and some form of pivot between them. For the most basic hinge, the butt hinge, this takes the form of two flat leaves with interlocking knuckles held together with a pin. How each of these is designed will dictate where the hinge is to be used. Hinges come in a variety of styles Butt Hinges The most common hinge you will encounter is one version or another of the butt hinge.

There are many variations, but with all of them the center of rotation is located at the center of the pin. When working with hinges having flat (unswaged) leaves, it is the diameter of the barrel that determines the depth of the mortise, not the thickness of the leaf. Some hinges are swaged - this changes the relationship between the leaf thickness and barrel diameter and as a result the depth of the mortise. When mounting butt hinges, failure to account for wood movement can lead to a condition where the lid will not close completely – called 'bound hinges'. In most cases having the top and bottom in tight contact with each other when the hinge is installed causes this.

As the wood expands seasonally, it forces the front of the box open with the hinge pin providing the pivot. This can also happen when you drive in screws that are off center to the hinge holes. This has the effect of decreasing the gap between the two pieces of wood at the hinge and causing them to be bound. Butt hinges come untipped (referred to as regular butt hinges) and tipped. For untipped hinges the mortise is cut so that the centerline of the hinge knuckle sits slightly proud of the cabinet front. For tipped hinges locate the knuckle just forward of the cabinet front. For either type of hinge cut the mortise to the depth of the thinnest part of the hinge.

No-Mortise Hinges No-mortise hinges are a category of butt hinge that does not require a mortise for installation. The two leaves are thin, usually 1⁄16', and this sets the gap between the lid and the box or an inset door and the cabinet frame.