BillSchiller: Because I’m processing wood now for this year and next year, would it be better to split the wood smaller so it dries faster and I stand a chance of having dryer wood by mid winter? The smaller split wood will dry faster. But you may want bigger chunks to burn overnight on a good bed of coals. The other thing I can suggest for drying wood is to bring in a fair quantity in the winter, possibly a week’s worth. It will dry very fast indoors as warm indoor air gets very dry in subzero conditions. As a spinoff it will serve to humidify to a degree. Okay, I found a Federal Airtight wood stove.

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Federal Airtight Wood Stove. Federal Airtight was another company that cranked out stoves in the 70s and 80s. The quality on these were a little suspect from what I. Find great deals on eBay for federal airtight wood stove airtight wood. Shop with confidence. Shop DutchWest Catalytic Wood Burning Stoves - Cast Iron Stoves from Majestic Products. The diagram above shows all the original parts for this unit. We are only able to get the parts listed below. If the part you need is not listed below, we are not able to obtain it at this time.

Model FA224CCML I bought it for $200 and sold our parlor stove for $100. It doesn’t have a secondary air system.

What it has is what they call an ‘over fire’ and ‘under fire’ air inlets. It is equipped with a 6'x 2' catalytic combustor which appears to have some life in it. I found some new ones on eBay for $135. If anyone has input on this stove, I would appreciate it.

What I do want to know is, when I removed the parlor stove to put this in place, there was about 1/4'-1/2' layer of soot up the 18’ wall single wall pipe inside the house. I knocked as much as I could and the pipe was considerably lighter after. I didn’t notice any creosote, just charcoal dust.

Do I need to worry about firing up the stove for the first time? Is this normal? Will it cause a chimney fire? I vote for running a chimney brush through the chimney.

There will likely be complaints arising from one part of the process or another, that fine soot is worse than drywall dust. If you can, maybe brush the vertical part from above, then after allowing the soot time to settle, carefully take the horizontal section outside and brush and dump it on the ground. If nothing else, the work will improve your heat transfer from the horizontal pipe. I am not certain if the soot is a high fire hazard, but any accumulation of combustible material in a chimney is cause for concern. Taken to a certain degree it should spontaneously burn, as Wayne observes with intake “events”.

But on this scale and draft it could be quite the event. Beautiful stove, btw, you got a steal of a deal there, perfect size for your home, and should save you half the wood you burnt last year, with much more restful nights. Another month and you should be putting that unit to good use in your neck of the woods, days are getting shorter. I wish you said you where looking at that stove before you bought it. I have the same stove.

It is designed as a wood or coal burning stove. So Naturally it fails at both. As to the question of the chimney clean it with a brush brush from the bottom. Get a new temp probe that sits in the steal plate over the cat converter it is critical to understanding how to keep that stove running the right air mix. Here is how I run mine. Close the air vent by the ashtray door and forget that grate and door is there. The grate will probably fall out anyway mine was burned out when I moved back up to the farm and it wasn’t really run that hard.